Context & proof
“Will a pressure wash make a magnetic plate fly off?” Short answer: no, provided you follow proper installation and the washing technique below. The magnets are very strong (a magnet–magnet layout with two lateral points, i.e., four magnets per plate), and real-world behavior has been shown repeatedly on TikTok (tiktok.com/@sleemplate) and Instagram (instagram.com/sleemplate) - see examples:
• Video 1
• Video 2
The technically accurate phrasing is: we have not observed detachments in real-world use when the installation is correct and these guidelines are followed.
Hint for a minimalist look: ultra-thin formats (like SuperSleem) keep everything fully visible, which also helps during washing.
1) Why angle and distance matter (a touch of physics)
A water jet exerts two kinds of stress on the plate:
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shear, when you spray at an oblique angle, sweeping dirt off the surface;
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lift, when you aim under the edge or nearly perpendicular to a lip, inadvertently trying to pry a part off.
Our target is to maximize shear and avoid lift. Practical recipe:
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distance 30–40 cm (12–16 in) from the plate;
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angle ≥ 45° to the plate plane;
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avoid aiming under the lower edge or perpendicular at the rim.
Why 30–40 cm? The nozzle creates a cone; too close concentrates energy on a tiny spot (lift risk under an edge), too far loses effectiveness.
Why ≥45°? Because at that angle the shear component dominates, cleaning the surface rather than prying parts.
Note: in internal tests it was OK even near ~20 cm, but we keep an official safety margin at 30–40 cm.
2) What pressure is “fine” at self-service bays?
Most self-service wands operate around ~100–120 bar (≈1450–1740 psi). You don’t need a hard pump limit; you need the technique above: 30–40 cm, ≥45°, no jet under edges.
Turbo/rotary nozzles are usable, but not near edges; keep distance and angle because the rotating jet concentrates energy into a narrow streak.
Pro tip: for a truly “frameless” look that avoids touching characters or the blue band, setups (like MagSleem X) reduce the chance of catching anything with the nozzle or brush.
3) Touchless vs. soft brushes vs. wand
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Touchless (preferred): pressure + chemistry; with the angle/distance rules, it’s the gentlest for plates.
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Soft brushes: fine with two conditions:
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don’t push the brush under the plate edge;
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be mindful at corners - don’t “pull” on them.
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Self-service wand: same technique as above; don’t sweep upwards from below the plate.
Chemistry: use pH-neutral. Avoid strong alkali/acids targeted under edges.
Temperature: the system’s operating range is −30…+60 °C; avoid hot steam directed under lips.
4) Honeycomb grilles: specific cautions
On honeycomb, plates often sit a bit more “proud” and it’s tempting to feed the jet through the cells “for a better clean.” Keep the same rules:
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aim between cells, but do not orient the wand to shoot under the plate;
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keep 30–40 cm and an oblique angle;
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after the first 2–3 washes, do a quick check of the fasteners (good practice for any mount, not only honeycomb).
If your honeycomb is large, use assemblies with properly sized blocks and extenders; this is precisely the scenario a dedicated set like MagSleem S is built for.
5) Recommended technique - “7-step wash”
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Pre-rinse at distance: 40–50 cm, oblique angle, slow passes. Goal: soften grime without shock.
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Foam / pre-spray (pH-neutral): let it dwell per instructions.
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Directed jet: 30–40 cm, ≥45°. Work from the side, not straight on. Strictly avoid jetting under the plate edge.
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Sensitive zones (corners & lips): short passes, no insistence; with a brush, “caress” top-down, never jamming it underneath.
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Final rinse: still oblique, 30–40 cm.
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Drying: if you have a blower, keep it oblique; otherwise, pat dry with a clean towel without forcing the corners.
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Post-wash mini-check (20–30 sec): wipe the plate edge, perform a static pull test at both lateral points, confirm the caps “click”; quick alignment glance. For tricky bumpers/grilles, use a millimetric alignment accessory like SleemFix.
6) Common mistakes (and why they’re mistakes)
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Jet <20 cm, perpendicular under the edge: maximizes lift and mechanically pries at the lip. Correct: 30–40 cm, ≥45°, sweep the surface only.
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Lingering at corners (incl. turbo) until “something moves”: that’s not a valid test - if you aggressively tease any part, you’ll dislodge it. Correct: short passes, never under the lip.
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Stuffing the brush under the plate: the brush acts like a hook. Correct: gentle top-down strokes, no “catching.”
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Aggressive chemicals targeted at joints: there’s no reason to “inject” strong alkalines/acids under edges. Correct: pH-neutral; extend dwell time rather than forcing under lips.
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Skipping checks after winter washes: salt gets everywhere; a 20-second micro-check saves headaches.
Material note: magnets are N52 neodymium, protected by zinc + black epoxy; they dislike mechanical shock (any magnet can chip if you slam an edge). This technique is designed to avoid shock in the first place.
7) Car-wash FAQ (focused)
Q1: Can a brush-wash knock the plate off?
A: Not if the brushes are “soft,” not pushed under edges, and you don’t “pull” on corners. Same rules as with the wand: no action beneath the edge.
Q2: What about winter ice on the plate?
A: Don’t try to “snap” ice off with a perpendicular 10 cm blast. Soften it: pre-rinse obliquely at 40–50 cm, repeat until it yields, then proceed normally.
Q3: Do foams/chemicals attack the magnets?
A: Under normal use (pH-neutral, proper dwell), no. The zinc + epoxy layers protect effectively. Avoid “wheel cleaner concentrate” stunts at joints.
Q4: Can I use industrial pressures above 150–160 bar?
A: You don’t need to. Effectiveness comes from angle + distance + time, not from pressing the nozzle right up to the part. If the wand is aggressive, increase distance.
Q5: Will the plate move during washing?
A: In real-world use with correct installation, no. You can always verify with a static pull test at both lateral points. For precise alignment, accessories like SleemFix help.
Q6: If I chip a magnet or a cap by accident?
A: Replace just that component — no need for a full kit. You’ll find what you need under Spare Parts.
8) Disclaimer (warranty & best practice)
Warranty covers manufacturing defects; abusive washing (jet <20 cm, perpendicular under lips, brushes jammed under the plate, extreme chemicals injected at joints) is not covered. The technique above shows how to get an effective, safe wash without “testing” pointless limits.
Bottom line
With proper installation, an oblique angle, 30–40 cm distance, and no jet under edges, car-washes (touchless, soft-brush, or wand) don’t pose a problem. See our real-world demonstrations on TikTok (tiktok.com/@sleemplate) and Instagram (instagram.com/sleemplate).